Contouring

When contouring you must first familiarise yourself with the structure and anatomy of the face and where the light and shade naturally falls on the face also.

What you will need:

Small powder brush
Fan Brush
Mixing Pallete
Highlighter
Contour colour - powder or grease

Application

• To begin, first feel the face structure to determine where you will enhance the light and shade.
• Next choose either grease or powder to contour with, I chose a powder as I wanted a light effect. (choose a colour that is around 2 shades darker than the natural skin tone.
• Decant this into your pallete and use either your fan brush or small powder brush to apply the contour under the cheekbone (not on top). You can also contour under the jawline lightly to create an illusion of shadow therefore slimming the face and onto the temples.
• To highlight, decant some of your highlighter into your pallete and lightly dust over the areas you want to 'pull out' and emphasise. These areas include: the tops of the cheekbones, centre of the nose, centre of the chin and centre of the forehead.

You can go quite extreme with contouring but simplicity is nice also, here is an example of my work with simple contouring.

Applying Base

What you will need:

• Concealer brush
• Foundation Brush
• Stippling/Buffing brush
• Cleanser, toner and moisturiser
• Primer
• Foundation pallete - Oil
• Concealer pallete - Oil
• Finishing powder
• Mixing Pallete - if needed

How to apply base:

• First you must carry out a consultation with your model to determine their skin type, tone, any contraindications and any allergies the model may have.
• Next you will cleanse, tone and moisturise the skin to prepare it for make-up application.
• Apply your primer next all over as you did with the moisturiser using only a small amount.

• To determine the colour of the foundation you will use, mix the colours on the back of your hand and test the colour on the jawline of your model's face until you are happy with the match.

• Once a match has been found, then continue to apply the foundation to the model's face making sure to work the foundation into the skin and also hairline. You can buff the foundation into the skin using a large stippling brush.
• Next you will be applying concealer. Your concealer colour choice should be 2 shades lighter than your model's skin tone. Apply this concealer to any redness, blemishes, dark spots and under the eye and blend well.

• You can then use your buffing brush again to work everything into the skin.
• Finally once this has been completed, you can lightly dust your finishing powder all over the face to set the base.

Top tip: Always remember that the base should always look like skin and that grease goes with grease, powder with powder.

Here is an example of a finished look.

 

 

Self Portrait

Here is the photograph I took for my Self portrait that shows what I love and what I'm about!
I included a small teddy that I brought from home that was given to me by my younger brother for my 21st birthday, this means alot to me as family is a huge part of my life!
I also included a Mac bag and products as I recently got a job in Southampton with Mac Cosmetics and am really excited to start and learn new skills and obviously I'm in love with the products (and this pallete in particular). The other brands that are in the picture are there simply because I love their products and used to work for Chanel.
The bottle in the picture was given to me by my Dad for my 21st and I've kept it as a reminder of a milestone in my life (my 21st birthday and moving away to University!) The angle of the photo is from above and I'm lying down because I liked to be chilled out and relaxing at home with my home comforts. The orange top I'm wearing is there because I love colour however I normally wear black white, grey or beige the brightest colour I love to wear is orange and coral! (strange I know).
Finally I decided to include me singing into my brush in the picture because I'm also a singer/songwriter and love performing in general so that's a big part of my life and personality!

Kevin Aucoin

Kevin Aucoin was one of the world's most influential make-up artists. His iconic looks and influence on the make-up industry included Christy Turlington's arched eyebrow, Cindy Crawford's lipliner and he worked with countless numbers of well known celebrities and models making his mark along the way charming people with his witty sense of humour and knowledge of what makes a woman beautiful inside and out. Here is my favourite Kevyn Aucoin product!

Kevyn Aucoin Beauty Senusal Skin Enhancer

A little of this product goes a long way and can be used as a highlighter, concealer, foundation although I like using it as a under eye concealer but be careful how much you use! It has a really nice creamy texture and is really long lasting!

The Seven Photographs that changed Fashion - Erwin Blumenfeld

This week I watched a short film on The Seven Photographs that changed Fashion and was fascinated by each photographers work and the thought process behind them. Each photographer worked in a different way but a way that suited them and each one captured beautiful original photographs that were and still are iconic today.
The photograph that stood out to me was the image that Erwin Blumenfeld captured in 1950 for French Vogue.

Published: January 1st 1950

Photographer: Erwin Blumenfeld

Model: Jean Planchett

 

This photo was originally taken in black and white but Blumenfeld took different areas of the photograph to focus on (the eyes and lips) and made them the focal point of the image. It almost looks like pop art and certain areas such as the shadow below the lips, the colour on the eyes were painted on afterwards as Erwin Blumenfeld liked to play around with colour and shadow and his original idea was to bleach out the image and manipulate the image later. He liked to think outside the box and shot countless numbers of Vogue images using art as his main focus. This famous image weridly works as you are drawn in by the colours used and the way that model seems to be looking at you through this image. I admire how Erwin Blumenfeld has been creative and explored new possibilities and hope to be able to be so daring with my own photography in these next three years and throughout my career.
In the short film of 'The Seven Photographs that changed Fashion' Rankin recreates Blumenfeld's iconic photograph with a modern day twist using Heidi Klum as the model and editing the photo using modern technology to do exactly what Erwin did. He added the eyeshadow and shadowing below the lip in the same way but decided on a more modern final image that showed the model's personality.
Here was the final image that Rankin decided to choose as his representation.

 

I like this image as it embodies femininity with the lashes and lips being in full view but also as I mentioned previously it shows personality which I think is extremely important when capturing a beauty shot. The way that her tongue is positioned is a more modern take on the original photograph as now we are much more expressive and experimental with photography and sexuality combined. Erwin Blumenfeld's work jumped out at me the most I think because of the colour and how different this photograph was, however all of the photographer's work that was shown in the film is such an inspiration and gives me so many ideas of my own. 

First Image Reference: http://www.art.com/products/p12503458610-sa-i6355899/erwin-blumenfeld-vogue-cover-january-1950.htm
Second Image Reference: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/4161221/Rankin-Seven-Photographs-that-Changed-Fashion.html?image=1
The Seven Images that changed Fashion Video Reference: http://vimeo.com/60749359
Date and Model Reference: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/galleries/TMG10064552/Erwin-Blumenfelds-iconic-images.html

Monochrome Look

As asked by Kat, I designed a Monochrome, Acromatic, Complementary and Analogous look at home that I could use in lesson. Below is a picture of my Monochrome look that I applied the night before on a friend of mine and during in our lesson on Kyomi and also a Acromatic look I tried at home

 

 

Monochrome - Facechart

 

 

Monochrome Leya - At Home

 

 

 Kyomi - In Class

 

 

Acromatic - Facechart

 

 Acromatic - At Home

 

 

I had so much fun creating these looks and playing around with the colours at home before the lesson, it made me realise that the combination of different colours can create many different effects and that different colours can complement and clash with each other. I now can see which colours will work well together and create the desired effect I want.

 

 

Kat also asked that we create two other looks on facecharts at home that shows a complementary and analogous colour combination. These are the facecharts that I created at home.

 

Analogous (three colours that are side by side on a 12 part colour wheel)

 

 

Complementary (two colours directly opposite each other on the colour wheel)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Contempory Portrait

For my contempory portrait I have chosen a picture of Beyonce from her photoshoot on her world famous song 'Run the World'.

 

 In this photograph the first thing I noticed was the gold  jewellery that she is wearing around her neck and also on her head aswell. It made me think of royalty as jewellery has been used alot to show status and power. Another thing that caught my eye in this picture was the way her arm is positioned, the strong angle that her arm makes shows what she is representing and the power behind the movement she supports 'female equality'. She seems to be standing her ground in this photograph and you can see by her facial expression that she means business.
This picture reminds me of certain aspects in my life and personality and how I fight for what I believe in similar to whats represented in this picture which is a narrative photo to empower women and portray the power of women.
The view of this photo is from a side on view of Beyonce's face, her jaw is turned to the right and slightly raised and her eyes narrow. This facial expression makes me think that she's confident and sure of what she's standing up for with her arm outstretched to show strength. It portrays a feeling of hope and aspiration for women and that we are equally as strong as men and can do anything that we like hard or not. Gold is used in this picture to show wealth and power and also her status aswell with the jewellery being very angular with alot of triangles used. In a larger version of this picture you can see that she is wearing what looks like a contempory version of a crown. The Red flags used in the picture almost give a sense that this is an important cause all over the world and that she wants everyone to pull together much like a country or nation would.

 

Focusing on the top image, I think the photographer wants you to see the emotion that Beyonce is showing and how passionate and driven she is. She does remind me of a queen in the image as she is already seen as 'Queen B' she represents the fight for equality for women so this photo shows how she thinks all women should be seen and should see themselves.

To summarise this photo has made me think about my aspirations and what I hope to achieve, it tells me that I have to believe in what I'm passionate about. The photographer has done a very good job in shooting this and has succeeded in making us as an audience see the emotion and feeling behind it.

 

 

Image References (Top): https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=beyonce+run+the+world+photo&biw=1366&bih=651&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=vxpIVJiUKKGV7Ab2sYCgBg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#tbm=isch&q=beyonce+run+the+world+queen+&facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=zQ1d3t6hdlI5IM%253A%3BwWxY1q--ClM9VM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fioneglobalgrind.files.wordpress.com%252F2014%252F08%252Fscreen-shot-2014-08-04-at-3-23-48-pm.png%253Fw%253D660%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fglobalgrind.com%252F2014%252F08%252F16%252Fbeyonce-jay-z-blue-ivy-carter-go-kart-racing-california-photos%252F%3B660%3B472

Image Reference (Bottom): https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=beyonce+run+the+world+photo&biw=1366&bih=651&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=vxpIVJiUKKGV7Ab2sYCgBg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#tbm=isch&q=beyonce+run+the+world&facrc=_&imgdii=o4sZOxmKe3HZSM%3A%3BVfQjiLnfjG5CzM%3Bo4sZOxmKe3HZSM%3A&imgrc=o4sZOxmKe3HZSM%253A%3BifqsFiIh3JjaVM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252F4.bp.blogspot.com%252F-j0klPPVXUTU%252FTdSG958UqQI%252FAAAAAAAADog%252FVKqFCznxRyk%252Fs1600%252Frun-the-world-beyonce.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fbackstagefix.blogspot.com%252F2011%252F05%252Fbeyonce-run-world-videoclip-and.html%3B475%3B401

 

Extreme Contouring

In my last lesson with Kat we spoke about extreme contouring and it's many uses and the effects it can create. Extreme contouring can change the shape and structure of the face by using certain products to accentuate features and bone structure also.

Convex and Concave

The meaning of the word convex is to extend outwards and the meaning of concave is to curving in or hollowed inward. These two words are very important when thinking about extreme contouring. The anatomy of the face plays a big role in creating an extreme contour look as you need to work with the natural light and shade of the face and accentuate different areas in different ways.

Here is an example I found of the use of convex and concave with contouring.

Before beginning an extreme contour look, you must first look for convex parts of the face for example (forehead, nose, jawline) these will be the areas that you will need to 'bring out' or 'bring forward' by highlighting these areas your creating depth to the look. Add your highlight colour with cream or powders whatever you like to work with most and buff in your highlight so it looks like a natural part of the skin.

When applying your contour always work gradually as you can always build the colour instead of applying too much and having to take product away. You must also remember that the skin should look like natural skin so taking the product into the hairline is a must to avoid any harsh lines that could be created by contouring.

When I first learnt about contouring I mostly thought of just natural contouring for day to day use much like in the picture below.

 

We had a go in class contouring and playing around with colours, I used oranges and browns for my colours to see what effect it would have. The final outcome came out quite extreme but with the use of natural looking colours.

 

 

I used a dark brown and orange powder on the concave of the cheekbone, sides of the nose, tempals and jawline then a lighter powder to the convex areas underneath the eye, tops of cheekbones, down the centre of the nose and forehead.

 

With Kat we spoke about contouring and that there are many different looks that can be created using the exact same principle but using colours instead. I found a picture a while ago that used colour to contour in this way.

 

 

 

In this image the artist has used monochromes of purple and also hints of yellow which refers back to the colour wheel as purple and yellow are directly opposite on the colour wheel which makes for a harmonious and complementary combination that is pleasing to the eye. They have also used a dark purple around the eye and I think this adds depth to the look which makes its visually interesting.

I had a go at trying something similar to this at home and really enjoyed using different complementary colours to create light and shade.

 

In this image I played around with the colours and used coloured hair chalk for the hair to keep the colour theme of purples and pinks continous. For the lips I mixed a dark purple with some of my black MAC paint so you could still see the purple showing through but this was again another monochrome of the colour purple. For the collarbones I also create light and shade by looking at the concave of the bones and creating a more exaggerated bone line.

 

I think when it comes to extreme contouring the main things that need to be considered are colour harmony and the colours you choose to work with, the convex and concave of the face for each individual person (as everyones different!) and to play around with different monochromes of that chosen colour!

 

Colour Theory

Colour theory is described in many different ways but there are three main areas of colour theory that must know: colour harmony, the colour wheel and how the colours are used. Colour theory helps us to group colours in a logical order.

The Colour Wheel

The coloiur wheel was founded by Sir Issac Newton in 1666 and this was when he developed the first circular diagram. As time has carried on many others have studied and created their own versions of this

On colour wheels there are also separate categories of colour:

Primary Colours: These are red yellow and blue and cannot be made by mixing any other colours and all other colours are made by mixing these three.

Secondary Colours: These colours can be formed by mixing the primary colours.

Tertiary colours: These colours can be made by mixing primary and secondary colours together.Here is a diagram I found to explain each colour wheel.

 

Colour Harmony

Colour Harmony can be achieved by using colours that are appealling and balanced to the viewers eye. This creates a sense of order and the viewers can be more engaged with the colours used. Using colours that don't work harmoniously together would result in a displeasing combination of colours to the eye and the viewer would find it either boring or chaotic.

Some basic formulas for colour harmony include:

 

Analogous Colours

These three colours are right next to each other on the colour wheel and usually one of the three colours is dominant.

 

Complementary Colours

This involved two colours that are directly opposite each other on the colour wheel for example blue and yellow. These two colours create the maximum contrast which is pleasing to the eye.

 

Nature

Nature provides us with many natural colour combinations that work harmoniously together.

Here is an example of a harmonious colour combination within nature.

 

 

The colours within this picture are directly opposite each other on the colour wheel and therefore create a pleasing harmonious combination. 

 

Colour Context

The way in which colour behaves and reacts to the use of other colours and shapes is very interesting for example if I were to use a red triangle on a black background and then a red triangle on an orange background the red on the black would stand out alot more because the contrast is greater. Using different colours together can sometimes result in the colour appearing to have changed hue or saturation. By observing the effects that colours have on each other I can now see that there are many different ways of perceiving and understanding colour theory.

 

References: http://www.colormatters.com/color-and-design/basic-color-theory

Second Image Reference: http://printingcode.runemadsen.com/lecture-color/

Research on Queen Elizabeth Inspired Films

In Sharon's class we watched a short part of the film Elizabeth with Cate Blanchett which I finished watching at home in my own time. We were given other films to also research that would help us see different versions of how Queen Elizabeth has been recreated.

 

Fire Over England

               

Year of Production: 1936

 Directors: William K Howard

Main Cast: Flora Robson

Vivien Leigh, Laurence Olivier
Make-up artist - Unknown

"The war between England and Spain in the late 16th century serves as backdrop for the fictional machinations of Fire Over England. Laurence Olivier plays a British naval officer who offers his services to Queen Elizabeth (Flora Robson) after his father is executed by the Spaniards. The queen dispatches Olivier to the court of Spain, there to determine which of her courtiers are actually spies for King Philip (Raymond Massey). Working under cover, Olivier learns that the Spaniards intend to send an armada to decimate the British navy. Barely escaping with his life, Olivier relays this information to his queen and also dispatches the traitors in her midst."
From what I can see the makeup and hairstyle used in this film is very much similiar to how Elizabeth is protrayed in Elizabeth with Cate Blanchett. The fair eyebrows and high forehead make Elizabeth instantly noticable and although the film is in black and white you can see that the make-up used was quite light but effective. The jewels and pearls are also a statement Elizabeth accessory.

Refrences: http://www.rottentomatoes.com/m/fire_over_england/
Image References: http://northeasthistorytour.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/dame-flora-robson-nz371658.html

         The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex

 

Year of Production:1939

Director: Michael Cutiz

Main Cast:Bette Davies, Errol Flynn, Olivia De Havilland, Donald Crisp, Alan Hale.

Make-up Artist: Perc Westmore

 

 

"This period drama frames the tumultuous affair between Queen Elizabeth I and the man who would be King of England, Robert Devereux, the Earl of Essex. Ever the victor on the battlefield, Devereux returns to London after defeating Spanish forces at Cadiz. Middle-aged Elizabeth, so attracted to the younger Devereux but fearful of his influence and popularity, sends him on a new mission: a doomed campaign to Ireland. When he and his troops return in defeat, Devereux demands to share the throne with the heir-less queen, and Elizabeth, at first, intends to marry. Ultimately sensing the marriage would prove disastrous for England, Elizabeth sets in motion a merciless plan to protect her people and preserve her throne."

Bette Davies was extremely committed to this role as an actress, for her role as Elizabeth she agreed to shave the front of her forehead to give a correct interpretation of Queen Elizabeth and the high forehead she fashioned and I think this is admirable. Her eyebrows were bleached too to add to this effect and the audience saw a completely different version of Bette Davies who was well known for her beauty, but her determination to become Elizabeth was well recieved and she won an academy award for the role.

 

References: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0031826/

Image References: http://www.themakeupgallery.info/period/c16/uk/elizabeth/essex.htm

http://eves-reel-life.blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/cmba-movies-of-1939-blogathon-private.html 

 

 

Elizabeth

 

Year of Production:1998

Director: Shekhar Kapur

Main Cast: Cate Blanchett, Geoffory Rush, Christopher Eccelstone, Joseph Fiennes

Make-up Artist:Anitta Burger

Hair and Make-up Designer: Jenny Shicore  

 

"London, 1554. England is rife with intrigue. Elizabeth, born of royal lineage (the daughter of King Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn), imprisoned by her half- sister Mary, when she is 16, is swept onto the throne and crowned Queen of England at 23. To survive, Elizabeth must suss out hidden agendas in her court, on the battlefield, in the church, and in those closest to her. The male-dominated ruling class would appear to have the advantage, but Elizabeth will deploy whatever means necessary to keep, or take, what is rightfully hers. This young woman of intelligence and vitality will toughen herself into the imposing icon of legend...Elizabeth I."

This is by far my favourite interpretation of Elizabeth played by Cate Blanchett who I believe captured Elizabeth as a person perfectly (from what we already know!) At the beginning of the film she starts off innocent and niave and as the film continues she seems to aquire a sense of nobility and power and really starts to take control of her image and those around her.  

 

References: http://www.rottentomatoes.com/m/1084153-elizabeth/

Image Reference: http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/cate-blanchett/images/13443704/title/elizabeth-screencap

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Westmores

After doing some research on the Westmores and their family history I was amazed at the work their entire family had done. The Westmores's legacy started in Hollywood and ever since George Westmore an English hairdresser and wigmaker set up a hair salon in hollywood the Westmores have been a major part of the make-up industry working with stars such as Elizabeth Taylor, Bette Davies and Farrah Fawcett. After setting up the hair salon, George would give his customers make-up advice and soon enough he founded the first studio make-up department at Selig Studios in 1917.Their work has also been shown on legendary films such as Mask, Gone with the Wind, Blade Runner, Rocky, Star Trek New Generation and so many more.

George Westmore had six sons Perc, Monte, Wally, Ern, Bud and Frank and they all followed in their fathers footsteps and pursued their passion for make-up. Some of the brothers worked for different make-up departments at other studios such as Warner Bros, Paramount, 20th Century Fox, and Universal Studios.

“Their artistic abilities were phenomenal,” says Sue Cabral Ebert, President of the Make-up Artists and Hairstylist’s Guild IATSE Local 706. “The beauty and the horror that you saw coming out of all of those different studios was directly because of their involvement.”

 

 

 

Mikenzie Westmore, George Westmore's great grandaughter now works on the world famous Syfy Network's 'Faceoff'' in which special effects make-up artists compete in a competition series. From generation to generation the Westmores have continued to bless the worlds screens with their unbelievable skills and knowledge and I've been really interested in researching them and their work!

Here below is a link to a video that I found with Michael G.Westmore talking a little bit about the make-up used when Perc Westmore worked on the film Elizabeth with Bette Davies!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEXNXL1pk7U

References: http://www.scpr.org/programs/take-two/2013/02/21/30608/oscars-2013-westmore-family-continues-to-make-up-h/

 Image Reference:  http://www.scpr.org/programs/take-two/2013/02/21/30608/oscars-2013-westmore-family-continues-to-make-up-h/

Elizabethan Portrait Analysis and Tudor Cosmetics

The use of make-up goes back centuries, even as far back to 3000BC to when Egyptians used khol to their eyes and eyebrows. The Elizabethans aquired khol and such products from the middle east during the crusades and began using these also.

 

Tudors used make-up to show nobility and wealth and only wealthy women could achieve the sought after pale complexion as poor women would be working and therefore their skin would appear tanned. The white make-up used to for this pale complexion was achieved by the mixture of white lead and vinegar and this was poisonous! However it did help to cover any scars that Elizabeth aquired after she suffered from smallpox. The red lips and cheeks was made of a mixture of cochineal and sometimes madden and vermilon was added to create the red colour. The tudors were influenced by the Crusades and many people followed Elizabeth's trends and copied her high forehead, pale skin, red lips and flushed cheek look as this was seen as noble and beautiful.

 

The richer of the tudor women would also dye their hair yellow as Elizabeth did and this was made from saffron, celendine, oil and cumin seed. Elizabeth had over eighty wigs in total and was said to wear these alot more often in later life when her hair started to thin as she wanted to uphold her image as the 'Virgin Queen'.

 

Refrences: http://www.sixwives.info/tudor-make-up.htm

 

On Friday we visited London for the day and had the opportunity to go to the National Portrait Gallery where we saw a number of Tudor portraits. The one picture that intrigued me was a picture of Elizabeth from 1588.

 

Name of Painter:  Unknown British Painter
Title of the Work: Elizabeth I 1558
Date it was painted: 1558
Size :  38 1/2 in. x 28 1/2 in.
Medium : Oil on Panel

 

The clothing worn by Elizabeth in this portrait is symbolic of her status and social class as she is covered in pearls and also bows which I think shows her femininity. The lace collar she's wearing draws attention to her face which was admired by many and is many fiercely tried to look like at that time. Her hair in this picture is also traditional and out of her face and may be a wig; from what I can tell this portrait was painted in her later years as her face looks slightly more gaunt and her eyes deeper set. The pearls hanging from her neck clearly show her status and her feather fan and headress also show me that what she is wearing was very expensive. They were given to her as a gift from The Earl of Leicester and were the last thing he gave her. The crown is clearly seen placed just next to Elizabeth to again show her status as Queen.

This portrait for me is all about power. Elizabeth's hand is over a globe which symbolises her power and what she is capable of. However if you look closer, the viewer's eye is lead to Elizabeth's hand that is covering over America symbolising England's domination over the seas and desires to expand wealth and power as South America was the source of Spain's Gold. The background which I found out may have been painted on at a later date, is of the Spanish Armada. You can see the ships on the left hand side of the image as normal and as the image passes Elizabeth to the right hand side the ships seem to be destroyed. This is a political aspect that has been added to the painting and it tells me and the people that would have seen this of her power and that the people respected her status and what her word was capable of. It is also a way of leading our eyes around the painting and in a way telling us a story of how England were victorious over the Spanish. You can also see that the cloth used in the background is red and gold which symbolises wealth as cochineal came from Spain and use of it was restricted to the very wealthy as it was expensive to buy and to put into clothing and fabrics.
Elizabeth's arms are symmertrical in this painting and are positioned outwards and her head raised; to me this shows confidence. Elizabeth wanted to be seen as strong and would want her people to have faith in her strength as a ruler and her stance in this portrait shows this perfectly.
Small versions of this painting would have been given to the wealthy by the government to win them over and to give an image of her purity, respect and love for her people.

 

This was by far my favourite image of Elizabeth as it encorporates everything that she is about. It shows her beauty, power and status and you can clearly see that many admired and respected her.

 

Image Refrence: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Elizabeth_I_(Armada_Portrait).jpg
Date Reference: http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw02077/Queen-Elizabeth-I
 

Cleanse, Tone, Moisturise and Health and Safety

The Fundamentals Of Make-up and Hair Design FMS406 Make-up Studio - Practical

Before applying make-up, you must first prep the skin to ensure it is clean and ready for make-up. To do this there are three steps that must be carried out: cleansing, toning and moisturising.

Skin Consultation:
Before carrying out any cleanse on your model's face you must first complete a consultation form to gather important information.

Define your model's skin type and tone

Ask your model if they have any allergies

Ask your model if they are currently taking any medication

Check for any contra-indications that may restrict or prevent you from carrying out the cleanse

 
ProductsThe products you will need to use for the cleanse are as follows:

Cleanser

Toner

Moisturiser

Cotton Buds

 

Cotton wool pads

Cleanse Cleansing your skin is extremely important as it helps to break down the particles of the make-up to remove them.

First take two cotton pads and cleanse all areas of the face, ensure that you get right into hard to reach areas such as the sides of the nose as these areas are more prone to blackheads and breakouts.

To remove eye makeup get your model to close their eyes and gently wipe in a downwards motion to remove any eye make-up they may be wearing. To remove from the bottom lashes ask your model kindly to look up, this will enable you to get close to the bottom lashes and use a cotton pad underneath to catch any remaining product.

Always make sure that all of the make-up has been removed from the skin.

The actions taking when removing are as follows:

sweeping strokes up the neck

take the pads across the jawline

take the cleanser up onto the chin and cheeks

across the upper lip

sides of the nose and down the centre of nose

across forehead and eyebrows

gently around the eye area to remove any eyeshadow

Tone

Toning is equally as important as it will take away any excess make-up that the cleanser didnt and it will also help to tighten the pores and remove oil.
To tone the skin repeat the same actions as with cleasing, remembering not to apply too much toner to the cotton wool pads (the skin shouldnt feel overly wet and ask your model to close their eyes).

Moisturise

And to finish, use a small amount of moisturiser and apply in similar upward motions onto the skin. You don't want to use too much moisturiser as it may not sit on the skin properly and you may end up with complications later when applying make-up to your model's face.
Your model's skin type will determine how much moisturiser you use; for example a drier skin may need slightly more moisturiser whereas an oily skin would not. If your model's skin is on the drier side, advise them to gently exfoliate their skin once or twice a week to remover any dead skin cells on the skins surface.
　
Health and Safety It is important when working with different models and people in the industry to always be aware of Health and Safety and any cross contamination. There are many things that may prevent or restrict you from carrying out your make-up application and you must identify what these things are to determine your course of action. Here are some examples of some contagious skin diseases that would prevent you from make-up application:Conjunctivitis Conjunctivitis is a contagious condition that causes itchiness, redness and inflammation of the eye which can cause a yellowy orange crust around the eye. It may have been caused by a bacterial or viral infection and therefore you would be unable to carry out makeup application to avoid cross contamination and also to avoid worsening the infection. 

ScabiesScabies is an infection caused by a parasite and may be caused by close contact with an infected person. The parasite is a small mite that burrows under the skin and treatment is needed to cure this. This means you would not be able to work on this client as the infection is contagious and you would put yourself at risk and also risk contaminating your kit. 

ImpetigoImpetigo is a higly infectious bacterial infection that causes blisters and sores usually around the nose and mouth area. These blisters burst and then form a yellowy/orange crust and need treatment to heal. This is extremely infectious and you would not be able to apply make-up to the area. This is because the spreading of make-up on the face may spread the infection to other areas and therefore worsen the infection and you would also be at risk of catching the infection yourself or cross contaminating your kit. 


Skin Conditions that would Restrict Make-up applicationEczemaEczema is a common skin condition that is sometimes called dermatitis. It is the reddening and inflammation of the skin that causes itchiness and sore areas. The usually feels dry but this is not infectious so you must be aware of what areas may be sensitive and what products you may not or may use for this model. Working around the area may also be possible. 
 Psoriasis Psoriasis is a skin inflammatory condition that leaves patches of red, dry, scaly skin. In some cases people may suffer more than others and this condition is not contagious so cannot be passed onto others. Many people have outbreaks of psoriasis and it may go away in time. You would be able to work around an area that has been affected by psoriasis as long as the model is happy and agrees for you to do so.






















　

New Elizabethans - Introduction

Here is my introduction to me! I'm a 21 year old passionate make-up artist who's love for make-up started through performance in musical theatre. Seeing all kinds of prosthetics and looks created in front of me gave me the drive to persue a career in make-up! I then went on to gain experience in various theatre shows, fashion shows, private bookings and worked with my first celebrity client last year! Ive currently got a certificate in Bridal and Fashion make-up application and also my BTEC level 3 in Make-up artistry. Ive had the chance to also work for brands such as Benefit cosmetics and Chanel (loved it!).

For our first project we have to recreate an elizabethan style of make-up with a modern twist and find 3 solutions to make the look work and still embody the elizabethan way of wearing make-up. From what I already know about the Elizabethan era, it was all about nobility and wealth and many famous men and women were born in this era including William Shakespeare, Sir Thomas Wyatt and Mary Queen of Scots. The make-up from this era for wealthy women showed their nobility as wealthier women were seen to have pale skin and working women who were outdoors had tanned skin which showed their class.

My only fear with this project is combining the traditional elizabethan look with a modern take and how I'll make them work well together, but through research I know I'll have a better understanding of the history of Elizabethans and I'll be able to encorporate different aspects of that history into my work. These aspects might include fashion and any post production aswell as the actual make-up.

I'm also however really looking forward to creating a look with a modern twist as it gives me freedom to explore different avenues and I'm looking forward to coming up with my final idea!

Illamasqua - Seven Deadly Sins (Envy)

We were very privileged in our first week at Solent to have a workshop with the lovely ladies from Illamasqua and here is the final outcome. They asked us to create a short story for our make-up look that we would later pitch to the rest of the class that explained our idea. We decided to base our look on the Seven Deadly Sins and chose 'Envy' to create. We wanted the look to exude confidence ad beauty but also the dark side of envy itself. In our short story Envy's looks were altered when she opened Pandora's box and we explained that Envy had now discovered her new found confidence. I loved the outcome of this look as we all worked extremely well together and pulled this look out of the bag in less than ten minutes with planning done beforehand!

Orientation

 

 

 

Our next task for our welcome week was to visit various counters in West Quay shopping centre to familiarise ourselves with the different brands. Kyomi and I visited several counters including Mac, Bobbi Brown, Laura Mercier and Benefit!

 

Laura Mercier - Laura Mercier's target audience is for the age groups of 20+ as I think it focuses on elegance and natural beauty rather than too much glitz and glam. The products all look amazing and the packaging is very sleek and sophisticated. Laura Mercier's hero product for me would be their Loose setting powder which is extremely lightweight and translucent which gives the face a soft focus!

 

Mac - From observation I would say that Mac's target audience is 16-50 roughly as they have a level of professionalism that appeals to all age groups. The counter is kept clean and tidy and the black colour scheme keeps it always popular and in high demand. I would have to say that Mac's hero product has to be their matte lipstick Ruby Woo.

Bobbi Brown - Next we visited Bobbi Brown and their target audience seems to focused on women in the 20's and upwards. Although I do know that some younger girls who have a passion for makeup use Bobbi Brown I think that's their main target audience. What I like about Bobbi Brown is that she uses and creates make-up to enhance women's natural beauty and that's what she set out to do! They have a range of exciting products at Bobbi Brown from metallic shadows to really useful palettes that us artists can use in our kits! Bobbi Brown's hero and award winning product is variety of Shimmer Bricks!

Benefit Cosmetics - And Last but not least, we visited the Benefit Counter in John Lewis. Benefit's counter is very eye catching and at first sight appeals to a younger audience. However having worked for Benefit for a number of years previously, I found that a large number of their customers were in fact from all different age groups. So all in all I would say that Benefit appeals to all age groups as they attract customers with their amazing packaging and their quick fix makeup tricks! Benefit's hero product would have to be their They're real mascara!

Induction Week - Mask Making

For our induction week we were asked to create masks that reflect where and who we would like to be in the future. For my mask I added a runway with models and myself at the front of the catwalk (not because I would like to be a model!) I did this because in the near future I see myself involved in high fashion. My aspirations are to be part of the fashion world and involved in everything make-up! I also added some of my favourite things to my mask, a dash of white (my favourite colour to wear) and a sprinkle of sparkle as I think this represents me and what I love the most!

Summer Project - 'If I Could I Would

 

For my first post on my brand new blog, here is my summer project! We were asked to create a mood board to visualise who and where we would like to be in five years time, what we would like to look like and we want to achieve. I tried to incorporate all of these things into my moodboard to really picture my career and all of the things I would like to do in my career. I gathered my research through magazines and online research too, I searched people I previously admired and also found some new amazing bloggers and make-up artists along the way! If I could change anything about my project I would make it on a larger scale and include more personal drawings and facecharts as facecharts are my passion! The final outcome however was ok, but in future I am really going to focus on the layout, colours and the visual impact it has on others.

This is the lovely Nicole Hackett!
In our group interview Nicole explained that her moodboard was based on Make-up for fashion and that she wishes for a job in which she can travel the world. Nicole did research for her project on the internet and said that if she could change anything about her moodboard she would add a few facecharts and drawings. Nicole thought the final outcome was ok but she thinks she could have done more.

 

This is Kyomi Best!

Kyomi's moodboard was taken mostly from magazine research and her aspirations are to be involved in catwalk, magazine work, celebrity make-up and to travel with her career. If she could change something about her moodboard, she would add some prosthetics as she loves working with them and would have included pictures outlining different career paths. She wasnt pleased with the overall outcome as she would have liked more time to finish it.

 

Here is Rebecca Leo!

Rebecca's moodboard was extremely detailed and her research was carried out online through make-up gurus and videos and also searching her favourite artists. Rebecca would love to teach make-up to others possibly through online tutorials as her admired make-up gurus do! She wouldnt change much about her moodboard as she was very happy with the final outcome, however one thing she would add would be a few facecharts to make it alot more personal.

 

 

 

And finally this is Isley Wylie Le Greaves!

Isley's passion is prosthetics and she would love to work in London in the near future to pursue her career in film and TV. Her aspirations for the future are to be successful but to be happy and confident aswell. She researched the project online mostly and if she could do the project again she would spend alot more time on drawings and thinks the overall outcome could have been better.